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Brewery Rowe: Out of a rut and Into the Northwest beer scene

A taste of Seattle and Bainbridge Island's sights, sounds and breweries, plus O'Brien's Pub scores again, beer events and Drink or Dump reviews

The tap room at Bainbridge Island Brewing in Washington state. (Peter Rowe)
The tap room at Bainbridge Island Brewing in Washington state. (Peter Rowe)
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As a general rule, it’s bad practice to shake up beer bottles or cans. Everything else? It’s important to shake things up, leap out of your ruts and set out to experience new places, sights and beers.

Late last month, we boarded Amtrak’s Coast Starlight in sunny Los Angeles, then chugged up the West Coast. Thirty-five hours later, we stepped out into overcast, damp Seattle.

We toured the University of Washington’s stunning campus, all the more lovely with its groves of cherry trees in full bloom. We were stunned by Dale Chihuly’s artistry at Chihuly Garden and Glass, located in the shadow of the Space Needle.

We became happily lost in Pike Place Market’s endless labyrinth of produce stalls, fresh fish stands and nooks filled books, clothing and oddities. And we boarded a ferry, setting sail across Puget Sound to picture-perfect Bainbridge Island.

Naturally, we — well, to be honest, I — did all this and more while hoisting some Seattle-brewed beers.

At Pike Pub and Brewery outside the market, I enjoyed Kilt Lifter, a Scottish ale with a burly 7.6 percent alcohol by volume (ABV).  Mahogany in color with a modest head, it showcased toffee-like malts and enough hop bitterness to cleanse the palate. On my “Drink or Dump” scorecard, this was a Drink.

With a bowl of salmon stew, I ordered Portage Bay Pilsner (5.5 ABV). This lager from Maritime Pacific Brewery opened with sharp, herbal hops, then smoothed out as the malts asserted themselves. Drink.

Georgetown Brewing ‘s products are omnipresent in the  Pacific Northwest, but two of its beers — Manny’s Pale Ale (5 percent ABV) and Bodhizafa IPA (6.9 percent) — left me disappointed. The former was lemony, yecch, while the latter resembled an orange Creamsicle. Neither had the crispness and balance I had hoped for. Dump and Dump.

Lush (7 percent ABV) was a welcome corrective. Fremont’s flagship IPA is plenty fruity, with lots of lime and mango notes, but it has a bitter edge and solid malty base. Drink. (For those keeping score, last year Fremont was purchased by the owner of Pike Brewing, the Seattle Hospitality Group.)

Fremont /Pike is one of the area’s largest brewing concerns, while Bainbridge Brewing ranks among the smallest. Yet the latter’s Kommuter Kolsch (5 percent ABV) punches above its weight class. This is a great beer for quaffing, light in body, crystal clear and sparkling. Kommuter goes the distance with malts that mimic buttered bread fresh from the oven balanced by a refreshing hit of herbal hops. Drink.

Seattle’s beer scene is well-established and will continue to prosper without an outsider’s commentary. Still, San Diego hopheads can rest easy. When next we travel — by train, plane or automobile — to the Emerald City, we’ll have no trouble finding beers to our liking.

The taps at O'Brien's Pub in the Convoy area of San Diego. For the second year in a row, USA Today named it the best beer bar in the U.S. (U-T File)
The taps at O’Brien’s Pub in the Convoy area of San Diego. For the second year in a row, USA Today named it the best beer bar in the U.S. (U-T File)

Congratulations and Apologies

I’m late coming to this party, so hope Tom Nickel will forgive me. A month ago Nickel’s celebrated establishment, O’Brien’s Pub, was hailed by USA Today as the best beer bar in the country.

For the second year in a row.

O’Brien’s may be best known for its hop-forward tap list, and why not? The 24 taps pour some of the best local beers and many notable out-of-town ales. But savvy customers also dip into the extensive bottle list, which is especially deep in Belgian imports, domestic wild ales and sour beers from sources foreign and domestic.

O’Brien’s Pub is at 4646 Convoy St., San Diego. obrienspub.net.

The Next Round

Saturday: Embolden Beer is — correct me if I’m wrong — the only San Diego brewery with a Japanese accent. The Miramar brewery will host “A Taste of Japan”  from noon to 6 p.m. Saturday. Besides Embolden’s Shogun Beer, expect food and drink from Ryoko Café, Matcha Café Maiko and Asian-oriented vendors. Embolden Beer Co., 8655 Production Ave., San Diego. newmotion-embolden.com

Sunday: I’ve mentioned this before, but it’s worth repeating (or am I in a rut?), Deft Brewing is one of the few local spots regularly offering cask conditioned beer. Sample these unique brews, fermented in wooden casks. 4 to 8 p.m. Sunday. Deft Brewing, 5328 Banks St., Suite A, San Diego. deftbrewing.com

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