The words “reinvigorate, rejuvenate and refresh” sum up the blissful response we experience during and after a spa treatment or vacation. The words grab our attention even further when they are followed by the directive, “Repeat at the start of each year.” Who doesn’t love a fresh and healthful regimen to launch each new year? I’m in!
When a rose is pruned at the start of each year, it receives a reinvigorating, rejuvenating, refreshing, individualized “aaahhh” treatment. Pruning is one of the greatest gifts we give our roses. It contributes to the health of the rose, and it maximizes the number, size and beauty of the blooms in the growing season. So, pruning our roses is a gift to ourselves.
There are two main reasons we prune roses: rejuvenation and ventilation.
Rejuvenation
Bottoms first: Start by looking at the bud union (the base of the grafted rose). Assess and keep the strongest, healthiest and youngest (usually green) canes. As roses age, canes usually become grayer, rougher and less productive. If there are a sufficient number of new canes, we cut the old canes out. Canes that are dead, spindly, diseased, or damaged must be cut out. A sucker is a shoot that comes not from the bud union but from the rootstock of a grafted rose. Its foliage and flowers and growth habit will look different from the grafted rose. You must forcibly pull it out or it will take over and affect the vigor and health of your rose.
Out with the old, bring in the new: Having determined that a cane must be removed, don’t leave stubs. Cleanly saw the cane right down at the bud union. This opens up space at the bud union and prompts the plant to produce new, more productive canes, known as basal breaks. Exception: Do not saw out old canes when there are healthy, secondary canes branching off from them.
Something’s gotta give: When canes are crossing and are crowding each other, identify the larger, younger canes and remove the weaker canes.
Healthy inside and out: When the pith in the center of an otherwise healthy-looking cane is brown, keep pruning down the cane until only creamy-white, healthy pith remains.
How low do we go? In cold climates, roses are “hard-pruned” down to 12- to 18-inch canes. In San Diego, we “moderately” prune and don’t normally take our bushes below knee height. The following are some general guidelines:
• Hybrid teas: Cut about one-third off the height. Hybrid teas are prized for their one large bloom per stem, so get rid of stem-on-stems, also known as doglegs, and cut back to an outside bud eye on a cane that is thick enough to the desired future bloom.
• Floribundas, polyanthas, shrub and David Austin roses: Cut back only one-quarter off the height. These roses are grown for a multitude of blooms, so leave branching doglegs but ensure that the stem diameter is no thinner than a pencil. Wimpy stems will not adequately the quality or cluster of blooms we desire.
• Miniature and miniflora roses: Prune using the same principles described above.
• Climbing roses are pruned very differently from other roses. Generally, the main canes are not shortened or pruned unless they are dead or damaged. Climbers bloom off lateral shoots. Lateral growth is encouraged when new, flexible canes are trained to grow horizontally. Laterals are reduced in length to about 2 to 4 inches, with the cut being made one-quarter of an inch above a strong bud eye.
• Old garden roses that are nonremontant (once bloomers): The blooms on these old roses are produced on current growth. Do not prune these roses during winter; otherwise, you will be pruning away your spring flowers.
Remove the tarnish of the past: The last step is therapeutic, symbolic, cleansing and enjoyable. Strip the remaining leaves on the bush, and pick up and remove all the leaves, pruned canes and clippings. This helps clear out dormant spores of fungi and overwintering pests from the garden. We are now rid of last year’s old leaves and trouble.
Ventilation
Fresh air and sunshine: Pruning out misplaced, crossing, damaged and useless wood removes congestion and opens up the center of the plant to light and air circulation. This translates into less fungal disease and fewer pests.
Why all the fuss about the bud eye? Leaflet sets spiral around rose stems. At every leaflet set there is a bud eye. Selecting and cutting above a bud eye (or leaflet set) that is outward-facing prompts the rose to grow in an outward direction. This achieves our aim of ventilating the center of the bush. Selecting an inward-growing bud eye prompts inward growth and thwarts that goal. Some roses, such as ‘Princess Alexandra of Kent,’ tend to have canes that sprawl horizontally. On these roses, to promote a more upright growth habit, we can purposely make some of our pruning cuts at an inward-facing bud eye.
How high above the bud eye? We make our cut one-quarter of an inch above the bud eye. When we cut higher than one-half of an inch above a bud eye, the remaining stub can die back, with the continued risk of die-back further down the stem.
The right tools make light work
- By pruners are better than anvil pruners, which can crush canes and stems.
- A small pruning saw makes clean, flush cuts where the cane cannot easily be reached or cut with pruners.
- By loppers are often necessary to cut through thicker canes.
- Sharp blades on all our tools are an imperative to avoid bruising the canes and stems. For us, they make pruning a breeze and reduce hand fatigue.
- Sturdy gauntlet gloves protect our hands and lower arms. It is always a good idea to wear a long-sleeved shirt when working in the rose garden.
- A rake cleans around the base of the roses to remove all leaves and clippings from the garden.
- Important tip: Make sure you are up to date on your tetanus shots.
events
Jan. 14 workshop: Pruning roses is best learned by watching the procedure and then practicing what you learned while being watched. Bring your gloves and pruners and attend the annual hands-on, no-cost pruning workshop presented by consulting rosarians of the San Diego Rose Society at the Inez Grant Parker Memorial Rose Garden in Balboa Park, 2125 Park Blvd. This year, this event is from 9 to 11 a.m. on Jan. 14.
Jan. 21 seminar: The San Diego Rose Society will host a rose growing seminar from 9:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. on Jan. 21. Topics will include pests and disease, soil, fertilizer, pruning techniques and tools, and rose care throughout the year. The cost is $36, which will include lunch and refreshments. For more details and payment information, go to sandiegorosesociety.com/events.
Perwich is a member of the San Diego Rose Society, a Consulting Rosarian and a Master Gardener with UC Cooperative Extension.
